Denim icon turns 137 this month under a licensing model, with its Greensboro headquarters and 400-plus jobs staying put

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Authentic Brands Group has completed its acquisition of the intellectual property of Lee from Kontoor Brands, Inc. (NYSE: KTB). Within hours, One Jeanswear Group (OJG) announced it will run the brand’s daily operations across the U.S. and Canada under a long-term partnership with Authentic, effective immediately.

The deal moves Lee from a single-owner structure into a global licensing platform. Authentic signed a definitive agreement in May and has since lined up regional operating partners to carry the brand across its major markets.

Salter: a brand with “heritage, recognition and consumer loyalty”

Jamie Salter, Founder and Executive Chairman of Authentic, framed Lee as a textbook fit for the company’s model:

“We are thrilled to welcome Lee to the Authentic family. Lee has the heritage, recognition and consumer loyalty we look for in a brand. By connecting Lee to Authentic’s global platform and the right partners in key markets, we see a significant opportunity to expand its reach through content, experiences and new product categories.”

Waldeck: a homecoming for Lee’s former brand president

The North American operator is led by a familiar name. OJG Chief Executive Officer Chris Waldeck previously served as Lee’s brand president and EVP, and he said the brand will in turn lift OJG’s existing portfolio:

“This is an exciting time for the Lee brand, as it will be an integral part of OJG’s overall growth initiative. Lee is one of the best-known denim brands in the world, and its legacy is a strength. The team has industry experience and talent as well as a wealth of institutional knowledge and passion for Lee that can’t be replicated. Keeping the headquarters in North Carolina creates a consistent foundation; together we will build upon that to drive long-term growth.”

Tbeilie: “an exciting and important milestone”

Morris Tbeilie, chief executive officer and chairman of Premier Brands Group Holdings, the parent of OJG, called the deal significant for both companies:

“The acquisition of Lee represents an exciting and important milestone for Premier Brands Group Holdings and OJG.”

North Carolina roots preserved

OJG has committed to keeping Lee’s headquarters at Revolution Mills, a former textile factory turned mixed-use property in Greensboro, and to maintaining the primary distribution center in Mocksville, N.C. More than 400 people work across the two sites.

OJG is positioning itself as one of the most important denim vendors for major U.S. retailers. It says it will use those relationships, along with its sourcing and wholesale distribution expertise, to strengthen Lee’s market position.

Four regional partners, and more to come

OJG is the first of several operators Authentic has signed:

  • One Jeanswear Group: U.S. and Canada
  • Experience Group: Europe
  • HiMaxx: China’s mainland, Hong Kong SAR and Macao SAR
  • Union Group: Mexico

Authentic says these partners bring regional market knowledge and capabilities in product development, sourcing and distribution. Additional licensees are expected to join and push Lee into adjacent categories, including activewear and workwear, as well as lifestyle products built on its denim craftsmanship.

The brand by the numbers

Lee generates about $1.5 billion in annual retail-equivalent sales across 73 countries, with nearly 40% coming from outside the U.S. and Canada. That international share helps explain the push for dedicated partners in Europe, Greater China and Mexico.

Heritage, and what comes next

Founded in 1889, Lee turns 137 in November. It designed some of America’s original denim and workwear, including the Lee Rider jacket, the Lee 101 jean and Union-Alls, pieces first worn in the 1920s and 1930s. Under the new structure, the brand will keep focusing on its denim icons through its “Built Like Lee” platform, introduced last year, which aims to reinforce its authority in denim and reach younger consumers.

Who is behind the deal

Authentic owns more than 50 brands, including Reebok, Champion, GUESS, Nautica, Eddie Bauer and Brooks Brothers, and works with more than 1,700 licensees and partners across 150 countries, reporting more than $38 billion in annual systemwide sales. OJG, a subsidiary of Premier Brands Group Holdings, manages brands including Gloria Vanderbilt, Jessica Simpson, Vintage America, Sofia Vergara and Nine West Jeans, selling through department stores, mass retail, club and e-commerce channels.